In the late 1790s, a 25-year-old Italian man, Giuseppi Acerbi, was at a loss as to what to do. Interested in natural history and exploration (and composing music), he decided to see the world — and traveled to northern climates. (Perhaps it’s like having a gap year following high school
graduation before entering college.)
When he returned home, he published a two-volume account of his adventures, Traveler through Sweden, Finland and Lapland to the North
Cape in the years 1798 and 1799.Travelogues were as popular then as now.
In Chapter XXII, he gets to the topic I’m most interested in — sauna.

“… The use of Vapour-Baths among the
People at large, and especially among the Peasantry — Some
Particulars of this Manner of bathing — The extraordinary
Transitions from Heat to Cold which the Finlanders can endure.”
“Another particular that appeared
very singular among the customs of the Finns, was their baths, and
manner of bathing. Almost all the Finnish peasants have a small house
built on purpose for a bath: it consists of only one small chamber,
in the innermost part of which are placed a number of stones, which
are heated by fire till they become red.
“On these stones, thus heated, water is
thrown, until the company within be involved in a thick cloud of
vapour.
In this innermost part, the chamber is formed into two stories for
the accommodation of a greater number of persons within that small
compass; and it being the nature of heat and vapour to ascend, the
second story is, of course the hottest.
“Men and women use the bath
promiscuously, without any concealment of dress, or being in the
least influenced by any emotions of attachment. If, however, a
stranger open the door, and come on the bathers by surprise, (He’s speaking of himself here.) the
women are not a little startled at his appearance; for, besides his
person, he introduces along with him, by opening the door, a great
quantity of light, which discovers at once to view their situation,
as well as forms.
“Without such an accident they remain,
if not in total darkness, yet in great obscurity, as there is no
other window besides a small hole, nor any light but what enters in
from some chink in the roof of the house, or the crevices between the
pieces of wood of which it is constructed.”
(Examine Giuseppi’s etching for the size of the sauna, the fire chamber, the benches, the switches... Even if he couldn’t handle the heat, he found ways to enjoy the process.)
“I often amused myself with surprising
the bathers in this manner, and I once or twice tried to go in and
join the assembly; but the heat was so excessive that I could not
breathe, and in the space of a minute at most, I verily believe, must
have been suffocated. I sometimes stepped in for a moment, just to
leave my thermometer in some proper place, and immediately went out
again, where I would remain for a quarter of an hour, or ten minutes,
and then enter again, and fetch the instrument to ascertain the
degree of heat.”
There
’s more, lots more — Volume I, with this story, has 396 pages, plus a dedication and preface. My next post completes his discussion.